Marseilles was supposed to lead to Barcelona. We checked at the train station Wednesday night and were assured that our train was running. Boy was I ready to leave France in the dust - had you noticed? - so we trooped off with our packs on Thursday morning in good spirits. No problems getting to Montpellier, where we were to change trains. Once in Montpellier… BIG problem. How is it possible that we have come this far and no one has mentioned to us before now that there have been no trains from France to Barcelona for the last 3 weeks?!!! Result: stuck in yet another French town until a bus leaves for Barcelona the next night. Positive: It was sunny while we toured around, enjoying the revival of the bakeries and crepe stands that I sorely missed in Dumpsville. Negative: Our hostel had atrocious facilities, and the front desk guy believed that telling us anything about the hostel was like telling us his most personal secrets. Positive: Fantastic meal at L’Arthur (duck breast in an orange sauce and grapefruit tiramisu). Negative: after dinner, we had to return to the hostel. I woke up at 6am and couldn’t get back to sleep because I was afraid the toilet was going to overflow and follow the course of gravity, which would lead it straight to my room. Believe me, my fear was not unfounded.

We got the heck out of there first thing in the morning and then faced the challenge of filling a second full day in Montpellier. We walked every street in the city centre 3 or 4 times and browsed every shop that was open- that took us to 11am. Then we sat in the Quick Burger for a while to use their wifi… wandered the streets some more… ate a few beignets… saw the American in English with French subtitles. Larissa had to fill me in on the lines that were in Italian. Crepes for dinner and at LAST picked up our bags and took a packed tram to the bus station.
9:05pm - On our way to Barcelona for real! I thought this moment would never come. The bus pulls out with not a seat to spare; mostly occupied by a noisy french high school group.
9:15pm - France has one last joke to play. The driver pulls into a rest stop and announces that we will be having a 1/2 hour dinner break and everyone must leave the bus. I was not amused. Will we be stopping every 15 minutes? I wouldn’t be surprised.
2:45am - The bus pulls into Barcelona. I am free! Au Revoir France, we will not be meeting again soon. You can mail me beignets and pain au chocolat until I decide to forgive you.
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